Good climbs today. It helped that I rested quite abit in between climbs.
Started warming up with some easy climbs. I took my time and took my rest spots and I felt really comfortable.
Next, I went on to tackle the yellow climb which I’ve done many times now, but have never red-pointed it. The last time I tried, I panicked at the last hold and failed to place my feet properly and fell. This time, I made a conscious effort to shake out and rest before the overhang portion. The next clip after that good rest spot was quite awkward and I feared the sapping of my energy would prevent me from completing the climb. Then it was to a good right hold, but because it was on the steep section already, I couldn’t realistically rest there. So I decided to just push on past the last few moves. I remembered not to make the same mistake as the last time and placed my feet comfortable before throwing to the last hold. It was with relief that I grabbed it–thankful that I’ve now redpointed it. Still, I did grab the top of the wall to clip in…
I did the orange route after that. It is a lovely route. I loved the start which is kinda crimpy and scary the first time I did it, but less so with each try–I don’t grip so hard on the edges now. I managed two clips beyond when the overhang started before I first fell. It was quite a good fall as well–I fell a couple of clips down. The second time, I fell quite near to the top. Was tired and couldn’t hold onto the undercling enough to grab the next tile. But having rested, it was only a couple of not too difficult moves to the top.
The last ‘hard’ climb I did was the annoying green one at the corner. I remembered the climb was scary and the only way to do it without being completely pumped out, was to climb as close to the clips as possible, before clipping in. Once you know that, and once you know what you can do the move, it becomes alot easier. So the first time I fell, was because I grabbed what looked like a handhold but is actually a foothold. I made that mistake before and swore as I landed. The next time I fell, it was because I didn’t dare to go for the next two holds. I struggled next to the clip, debating if I should risk clipping in or go for the next hold. My feet didn’t feel comfortable and I knew I wasn’t applying enough pressure on them. In the end I chickened out and dropped. After that, I thought to myself–screw it, I’m just going to go for it, in any case, the foothold on the orange one is as bad if not worse than this green, so if I could do that, I most certainly could do this one. And so I did the last few moves easily, climbing above the last quickdraw to reach the anchor. For some reason, I felt it was still necessary to clip in the last draw before securing the anchor, much to the amusement of my belayer.
All in all, good climbs!
A part of me wonders if these recent improvements are simply a result of climbing with people who climb harder than I do. Besides learning from them, it has also been motivating me to climb harder, and so I start climbing at the edge of my comfort zone again–like I used to do when I first started out climbing, and of course that just makes one improve much faster.
Ahh, the wonders of peer pressure. Now to stay injury free.