Everyday life


So it has been about 6 months since I woke up that fateful morning with the shark pain between my shoulder blades and weakness in my thumb and little finger.

I’ve climbed about 4-5 times in the last month, doing it not more than once a week. At first I only top-roped, but with the belay glasses, I went back to leading again. Even though it was about 4 months of not climbing, the climbing wise was still pretty good. Could top-rope 6b and onsight 6as on lead without much of a problem. The power is sorely lacking though, so powerful moves tend to result in the muscles feeling strained. I often forget myself and push more than I should.

But I compare my recovery to those of what I’ve read and I truly think the progress has been great. It isn’t 100% good. I still feel the tightness in the left arm and random tinglings of pain in the fingers at times, but otherwise it is pain free. My neck and shoulder muscles also do tense up very easily and in particular the muscle tightness between the shoulder blade hasn’t quite completely vanished–but I can look up without that burning pain. The shoulder blades, though still winging, have, I think improved enough that I’ve had comments that my posture has improved. So overall, I think it is a huge improvement. Have also been strengthening my glutes by doing clamshell exercises and squats and knees have coped alot better. Lower back could still be improved on, but all the stretching of the hips and the legs should be helping.

I’m glad I didn’t rush into a surgery and let time take its course. In a way, this injury helped me to take care of my body better in an overall sense. Hopefully I can rein in my impatience for recovery and climb for a very long time to come.


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