I first climbed Boring and Meaningless about 4 years ago, I didn’t lead it. Someone put up the rope for us and we top-roped it. It was my second time at Dairy Farm.
I remember thinking wtf the whole way up the climb. The handholds were so smooth and slippery. My feet wouldn’t stay on the surface of the rock.
Because of Boring and Meaningless, I thought that Granite would always be of this texture and shape – smooth angular edges. Imagine my surprise when in Europe, I found out that Granite actually gives wonder slab friction.
I never did try to lead Boring and Meaningless. To me, the climb was simply too scary. But today, I decided to put this behind me.
I top-roped it first. Figuring out the beta and the sequence for the moves. I even went over the clipping positions carefully. For someone that’s not hung up about redpointing stuff, that’s alot to do.
And then it was execution time. And this time, except for one moment, there was no fear or panic. Just the body moving the the places and positions that it needs to be. Feet up, left hand ledge, right hand clip. Back down to rest. Feet up, right hand ledge, left hand up, high step heel in, sit in and get the right side pull. Clip. Right foot up. Left foot to right foot. Lay back, left hand up to corner. Slight mantle up. Clip. Move left. Move further left. Let go of the right hand hold and get the little left sidepull/crimp. Right hand cross over to the top. Right foot up, left foot up, match feet, left foot heel. Anchor. There was no hesitation and doubt. There was no moment which I thought – I’m scared.
And that’s when I know that Boring and Meaningless is another climb that I can put behind me. Together with American Pie.
Thank you DF. You may be a small tiny muddy crag in a manicured garden of concrete and steel, but you’ve watched me grow through the years and you’ve always been there to provide the ultimate climbing test for me.